She Likes to Watch

“Botso: The Passion of Music, The Power of Art,” is a feature-length documentary film project focusing on the life of Morro Bay teacher, musician and sculptor Wachtang “Botso” Korisheli, and on the importance of an arts education to society. Central Coast filmmakers Tom Walters, Hilary Grant, and Simo Nylander are traveling with the Korisheli family in the Republic of Georgia, where Botso grew up. Funded through ongoing donations from the community, this nonprofit endeavor is being produced under the auspices of the San Luis Obispo County Youth Symphony. SLO Goings will publish blog entries written by the filmmakers about their trip in coming weeks. More information can be found at www.aspectstudios.com/botso.

We had an audience with His Holiness and Beatitude Catholicos Patriarch of All Georgia Ilia II. He is the head of the Georgian Orthodox Christian church — the leader of all who practice this faith in Georgia. Out of more than 5 million people who live in Georgia, it’s a safe bet that 4.5 million look up to this man as their leader. So, this was a very big deal.

It turns out that one of Botso’s relatives in Dimi (remember the truck ride up the creek bed?) works for the patriarch, so she was able to arrange a meeting. Nonetheless, this is a very uncommon event — Ilia II does not do these ceremonies as a rule. Best of all — we caught the entire visit on film!

I can’t even begin to really describe the experience because I have nothing to compare it with. I’ll try, though!

Perhaps being smack in the middle of a l920s silent costume epic directed by Cecil B. DeMille? Except this time, all of the gold furniture and murals and icons on the walls were real. This time, the Patriarch was not from central casting. Of course, he could have been — long white beard, long black robe, hair tied in a tiny bun at the nape of his neck, a jeweled pendant of the Christ child on a heavy chain.

We were first led to one ornate room, then, as Simo so succinctly put it, got an upgrade to a bigger, even fancier room. There, we were led to chairs in a semicircle. Ilia entered and we took turns bowing and kissing his sleeve. Botso seemed a little awed at first but relaxed once he and Ilia began talking. Later, Margaret (Botso’s wife, who can understands bits and pieces of Georgian) told me Ilia asked about Botso’s life, his music, his work. In this big room, nuns in black from head to toe then came in and handed us tiny ornate teacups of what looked like melted coffee ice cream. Yummy! Also, we were each given silver thimble-like cups with some other liquid.

We waited for our cue — Ilia, of course, drank first — and then each took a slug out of the thimble-looking cups. Wowie zowie! It was high-grade cognac. Given that I don’t drink, one big sip and that was enough for me! And the coffee ice cream? Nope — it was the strongest coffee I’ve ever had, with some sort of cream-nutmeg concoction floating on top. As Margaret told me later, “I don’t know whether I’m supposed to be sedated or buzzed!” In this room, nuns also set up some music on a speaker system and we listened to some beautiful Georgian singing (In addition to being the cradle of winemaking, Georgia is also the birthplace of harmony). Margaret later explained to me that this is music Ilia has written. He asked Botso if he thought he had talent or if he should just quit.

Now, what would YOU say to such a man if he asked you this question? I’m pretty sure that Botso told him to continue composing music!

After our coffee, Ilia then led us to an adjoining room full of beautiful plants. Then, the patriarch sat down at a small table covered with an ornate brocaded cloth. He lifted the cloth and voila — there was a Yamaha keyboard! He and Botso then proceeded to jam for a few minutes (well, as much jamming as you can do if you’re the leader of the Christian faith here) — which was completely surreal.

The entire visit lasted about an hour and all of us came out of there saying, “Did that really happen?”

Our last day of filming also included a stop at the clinic where Botso was born, shooting exteriorfootage of the prison where his father was taken (Botso did not go), and talking to refugees who are living on the outskirts of Tblisi in Soviet-built apartments. We will be posting photos whenwe return — keep a lookout for them! We’ll also have a Georgia photo gallery on our Web site, at www.aspectstudios.com/botso. In addition, we were featured on the national news earlier this week and we’ll try to put that up as well. The segment was about two minutes long and in addition to Botso and his family, Tom and I also spoke about the importance of coming to Georgia as part of this project.

By the time you’ve red this we will have left for our trip back to the U.S. But before that — no surprise here — we are having a huge Georgian feast to celebrate the end of our magical time here. Then, off to the airport.

Wish us a safe journey home to SLO!

Hilary Grant
Writer/Co-Producer of “Botso”

“Botso: The Passion of Music, The Power of Art,” is a feature-length documentary film project focusing on the life of Morro Bay teacher, musician and sculptor Wachtang “Botso” Korisheli, and on the importance of an arts education to society. Central Coast filmmakers Tom Walters, Hilary Grant, and Simo Nylander are traveling with the Korisheli family in the Republic of Georgia, where Botso grew up. Funded through ongoing donations from the community, this nonprofit endeavor is being produced under the auspices of the San Luis Obispo County Youth Symphony. SLO Goings will publish blog entries written by the filmmakers about their trip in coming weeks. More information can be found at www.aspectstudios.com/botso.

We only have two more shooting days left, so we’re definitely feeling the pressure to get as much done as possible. Today we visited some ancient (fourth century) caves right outside of Gori, Josef Stalin’s birthplace. After our uphill-creek-bed-climbing in Dimi last Sunday, this was a snap: just two miles — uphill, of course — with no railings (naturally) on a limestone path.

Granted, I had to sometimes crawl to make it up the hill, but I actually made it. At the very top, of course, was yet another church. A woman inside was manning the tourist shop! Amazing that she makes that climb every day. Botso, of course, continues to astound us with his energy and strength. He made it all of the way up, talking to the camera during most of the climb, and using only his two legs. On the way back to Tbilisi, we stopped at a sculptor/painter’s studio. He said he’d be back in five minutes, and then came with sausage, cucumbers, Georgian bread and his homemade wine in tow. That’s just the Georgian way: guests show up, and you bring food. Lots of food. He was also fascinated by my pigtails — he kept patting my head, kissed my hand when we entered, and insisted on having a picture taken with me.

One big disappointment regarding our filming — we will not be able to film inside the prison where Botso’s father was imprisoned, despite an inside contact via a journalist friend here.

We are not exactly being told “no,” just being told “we’ll call you tomorrow.” This, however, has been going on for about a week. We have some details about this prison, so we can understand why. For one thing, the prison is still being used, but it has not been modernized in many decades. To say that the conditions are medieval is not an exaggeration. In fact, we were told that crime goes down during the summer because it is so unbearably hot in there that people routinely die. Also, there are not enough beds, so inmates have to take turns sleeping.

Botso is disappointed, but I think that another part of him feels relieved. We are going to have him talk about these mixed feelings, and we will be able to film outside the prison. The fact is this: We have to include the prison in some way because it is truly the linchpin of Botso’s life and story. If Botso’s father had not gone to this prison, Botso’s life would have been radically different.

I’ll do my best to write at least one more blog before we leave. Onward!

Hilary Grant
Writer/Co-Producer of “Botso”

“Botso: The Passion of Music, The Power of Art,” is a feature-length documentary film project focusing on the life of Morro Bay teacher, musician and sculptor Wachtang “Botso” Korisheli, and on the importance of an arts education to society. Central Coast filmmakers Tom Walters, Hilary Grant, and Simo Nylander are traveling with the Korisheli family in the Republic of Georgia, where Botso grew up. Funded through ongoing donations from the community, this nonprofit endeavor is being produced under the auspices of the San Luis Obispo County Youth Symphony. SLO Goings will publish blog entries written by the filmmakers about their trip in coming weeks. More information can be found at www.aspectstudios.com/botso.

Georgian food is … interesting. After four days straight of this cuisine — lots of cilantro, eggplant, walnuts, chunks of beef and a cheese that tastes like rancid olive oil (I’m told it’s an acquired taste) — Botso’s wife, Margaret, myself, as well as Botso and Margaret’s kids (Lia and Ellena) were hungering for something a little more familiar to our palettes. So, we headed to the only McDonald’s in town, which was mobbed. Georgians love McDonald’s! And I must say, our stomachs calmed down quite a bit after a dose of cheeseburgers, fries and shakes.

Yesterday the crew had pizza for lunch. Of course, it was Georgian style. That meant that the crust was like a very crispy, flat burrito-sized flour tortilla. No real tomato sauce to speak of, but the toppings were recognizable — Canadian bacon, salami, eggplant (naturally), green peppers and the requisite cheese. I passed on the hot tuna slice, though. Lots of soft drinks — but no ice, ever.

Surprisingly, it’s difficult to find a good cup of coffee. Most people use various instant brands, although Simo, our cameraman, finally found a bakery with an espresso machine today. Not only that, it’s open 24/7. Suffice to say he’s a very happy camper! We were told that a Starbucks would be very popular here, but with the average salary just $80 per month, there’s no way anyone would pay $5 for a cup of coffee, no matter how fancy.

We continue to film all during the day and often into the night. Our biggest stop yesterday was the Rustaveli Theatre, where Botso’s father and mother were actors in what was the most prestigious theater company in Georgia. The theater — still very active — reminded me of the l920s movie palaces still around in downtown Los Angeles. Very ornate, very baroque, very impressive.

Botso stood on its massive stage and said, “I wish all of my students could see this.” Today we are interviewing an American journalist (he is the correspondent for National Public Radio) who loves Georgia so much that he has bought a home here and has decided to make this his permanent home base. It will be an interesting perspective. We are also being interviewed by a local television station and have already been interviewed by the largest daily in Tbilisi.

Onward!

Hilary Grant
Writer/Co-Producer of “Botso”

“Botso: The Passion of Music, The Power of Art,” is a feature-length documentary film project focusing on the life of Morro Bay teacher, musician and sculptor Wachtang “Botso” Korisheli, and on the importance of an arts education to society. Central Coast filmmakers Tom Walters, Hilary Grant, and Simo Nylander are traveling with the Korisheli family in the Republic of Georgia, where Botso grew up. Funded through ongoing donations from the community, this nonprofit endeavor is being produced under the auspices of the San Luis Obispo County Youth Symphony. SLO Goings will publish blog entries written by the filmmakers about their trip in coming weeks. More information can be found at www.aspectstudios.com/botso.

Imagine a scene straight out of “My Big Fat Greek Wedding” — except the “wedding party” is made up of Georgians. That was our grand adventure yesterday — which also featured one of the scariest experiences of my entire life.

We began our long (four and a half hours), very bumpy (think airplane turbulence) drive to Dimi, a tiny village northwest of Tbilisi where Botso spent many happy boyhood summers with his grandparents.

Picture this place as a way more primitive Harmony, with pigs, dogs and water buffalo sharing the road with cars — that’s Dimi. Western toilets are completely unavailable here, too, so make sure your squatting skills are in tip-top shape!

After arriving at Botso’s relatives’ home, we were told that we were going to be treated to an immense Georgian feast. First, though, they explained that it was important — in fact, necessary and fortuitous for everyone involved — to visit a several-hundred-year-old family prayer site, less than 2 miles away. No one bothered to tell us that most of those miles —closer to five — would be spent traveling in an ancient, completely open air transport truck, standing up with about 20 other people, with only a thin bar to hold.

Not only that, but the drive was not on a road. Nope, it was on an uphill creek bed with large boulders, slowly climbing up the top of a mountain. Not only that, the gear-shifts on the truck were behind the driver, so he was guessing which gears to use! We had to duck several times for trees as well, and the truck kept lurching downhill. Lots of screaming — including from me! I kept thinking that I HAD to see my daughter and husband again!

But, we made it to the site — Botso, too (the word “trooper” does not begin to describe him) — a beautiful spot on top of a mountain, where bread and wine and cheese were consumed (Georgians love food). By the time of the feast a few hours later, we were just very grateful to be alive!

More later!

Hilary Grant
Writer/Co-Producer of “Botso”

“Botso: The Passion of Music, The Power of Art,” is a feature-length documentary film project focusing on the life of Morro Bay teacher, musician and sculptor Wachtang “Botso” Korisheli, and on the importance of an arts education to society. Central Coast filmmakers Tom Walters, Hilary Grant, and Simo Nylander are traveling with the Korisheli family in the Republic of Georgia, where Botso grew up. Funded through ongoing donations from the community, this nonprofit endeavor is being produced under the auspices of the San Luis Obispo County Youth Symphony. SLO Goings will publish blog entries written by the filmmakers about their trip in coming weeks. More information can be found at www.aspectstudios.com/botso.

We’ve only been in Georgia a few days, but what we noticed immediately is the hospitality of the Georgian people. Botso’s relatives came to pick us up at the airport — at 4 a.m. Then — even though they knew we wouldn’t be using their services — two taxi drivers helped us load all of our luggage and camera gear. They did it because they saw a need — and also saw that it was the right thing to do.

Then, our landladies (we are renting two apartments) were waiting for us a half hour later. They wanted to show us where our bedding was, how to get hot water, how to use keys, etc. The landlady of the apartment where I’m staying (with Tom and Simo Nylander, our cameraman), had already stocked the refrigator for breakfast, saying “I knew you would be coming in in the middle of the night, and I knew you would be hungry.” This was a gesture from someone who is clearly stuggling to make ends meet. And of course, we’ve already shot a lot of footage in and around Tbilisi.

This includes going to the top of a non-operating tramway where an amusement park is under construction; the “Holy Mountain” church with an adjacent memorial garden that pays homage to many of Georgia’s artists, actors and musicians (including Botso’s godmother); Botso’s high school, where we met the principal and discovered that the President of Georgia is also an alumnus, and an interview and photo shoot with a major daily newspaper in Georgia.

And that doesn’t even begin to cover the entire day!

Hilary Grant

Writer/Co-Producer of “Botso”