She Likes to Watch

“Botso: The Passion of Music, The Power of Art,” is a feature-length documentary film project focusing on the life of Morro Bay teacher, musician and sculptor Wachtang “Botso” Korisheli, and on the importance of an arts education to society. Central Coast filmmakers Tom Walters, Hilary Grant, and Simo Nylander are traveling with the Korisheli family in the Republic of Georgia, where Botso grew up. Funded through ongoing donations from the community, this nonprofit endeavor is being produced under the auspices of the San Luis Obispo County Youth Symphony. SLO Goings will publish blog entries written by the filmmakers about their trip in coming weeks. More information can be found at www.aspectstudios.com/botso.

Georgian food is … interesting. After four days straight of this cuisine — lots of cilantro, eggplant, walnuts, chunks of beef and a cheese that tastes like rancid olive oil (I’m told it’s an acquired taste) — Botso’s wife, Margaret, myself, as well as Botso and Margaret’s kids (Lia and Ellena) were hungering for something a little more familiar to our palettes. So, we headed to the only McDonald’s in town, which was mobbed. Georgians love McDonald’s! And I must say, our stomachs calmed down quite a bit after a dose of cheeseburgers, fries and shakes.

Yesterday the crew had pizza for lunch. Of course, it was Georgian style. That meant that the crust was like a very crispy, flat burrito-sized flour tortilla. No real tomato sauce to speak of, but the toppings were recognizable — Canadian bacon, salami, eggplant (naturally), green peppers and the requisite cheese. I passed on the hot tuna slice, though. Lots of soft drinks — but no ice, ever.

Surprisingly, it’s difficult to find a good cup of coffee. Most people use various instant brands, although Simo, our cameraman, finally found a bakery with an espresso machine today. Not only that, it’s open 24/7. Suffice to say he’s a very happy camper! We were told that a Starbucks would be very popular here, but with the average salary just $80 per month, there’s no way anyone would pay $5 for a cup of coffee, no matter how fancy.

We continue to film all during the day and often into the night. Our biggest stop yesterday was the Rustaveli Theatre, where Botso’s father and mother were actors in what was the most prestigious theater company in Georgia. The theater — still very active — reminded me of the l920s movie palaces still around in downtown Los Angeles. Very ornate, very baroque, very impressive.

Botso stood on its massive stage and said, “I wish all of my students could see this.” Today we are interviewing an American journalist (he is the correspondent for National Public Radio) who loves Georgia so much that he has bought a home here and has decided to make this his permanent home base. It will be an interesting perspective. We are also being interviewed by a local television station and have already been interviewed by the largest daily in Tbilisi.

Onward!

Hilary Grant
Writer/Co-Producer of “Botso”

“Botso: The Passion of Music, The Power of Art,” is a feature-length documentary film project focusing on the life of Morro Bay teacher, musician and sculptor Wachtang “Botso” Korisheli, and on the importance of an arts education to society. Central Coast filmmakers Tom Walters, Hilary Grant, and Simo Nylander are traveling with the Korisheli family in the Republic of Georgia, where Botso grew up. Funded through ongoing donations from the community, this nonprofit endeavor is being produced under the auspices of the San Luis Obispo County Youth Symphony. SLO Goings will publish blog entries written by the filmmakers about their trip in coming weeks. More information can be found at www.aspectstudios.com/botso.

Imagine a scene straight out of “My Big Fat Greek Wedding” — except the “wedding party” is made up of Georgians. That was our grand adventure yesterday — which also featured one of the scariest experiences of my entire life.

We began our long (four and a half hours), very bumpy (think airplane turbulence) drive to Dimi, a tiny village northwest of Tbilisi where Botso spent many happy boyhood summers with his grandparents.

Picture this place as a way more primitive Harmony, with pigs, dogs and water buffalo sharing the road with cars — that’s Dimi. Western toilets are completely unavailable here, too, so make sure your squatting skills are in tip-top shape!

After arriving at Botso’s relatives’ home, we were told that we were going to be treated to an immense Georgian feast. First, though, they explained that it was important — in fact, necessary and fortuitous for everyone involved — to visit a several-hundred-year-old family prayer site, less than 2 miles away. No one bothered to tell us that most of those miles —closer to five — would be spent traveling in an ancient, completely open air transport truck, standing up with about 20 other people, with only a thin bar to hold.

Not only that, but the drive was not on a road. Nope, it was on an uphill creek bed with large boulders, slowly climbing up the top of a mountain. Not only that, the gear-shifts on the truck were behind the driver, so he was guessing which gears to use! We had to duck several times for trees as well, and the truck kept lurching downhill. Lots of screaming — including from me! I kept thinking that I HAD to see my daughter and husband again!

But, we made it to the site — Botso, too (the word “trooper” does not begin to describe him) — a beautiful spot on top of a mountain, where bread and wine and cheese were consumed (Georgians love food). By the time of the feast a few hours later, we were just very grateful to be alive!

More later!

Hilary Grant
Writer/Co-Producer of “Botso”