Hawaiian surfers aren’t always known for their hospitality.
In the 70s, when a group of outsiders came in and started — ahem — making waves, there were a good many Hawaiians who simply wanted them to go home. But those surfers remained and, in the process, changed the course of surfing, paving the way for a huge industry.
In a nutshell, that’s the focus of “Bustin’ Down the Door,” a new surf movie appearing at the Fremont Friday. One of the movie’s stars, Shaun Tomson, will answer questions during the event.
Tomson, a South African world class surfer, was the star of “Free Ride,” and is especially known for his tube rides at the famous Pipeline break. Today, he lives in Santa Barbara County and operates a clothing business a half mile from Rincon.
I didn’t know this before, but his father, a swimmer with Olympic potential, lost an arm to a brutal shark attack. And long before Tomson became known for his tube rides and his “surfer’s code,” he was inspired by Greg Noll’s legendary Makaha ride — then considered the biggest ever — which he (and very few others) witnessed in 1969.
In addition to Tomson, the movie, narrated by Edward Norton, includes vintage film plus interviews with Wayne “Rabbit” Bartholomew, Ian Cairns, Peter Townend, Rob Machado and Kelly Slater.
I haven’t seen the movie, but “Variety” gave it big accolades, proclaiming, it “is certain to rank alongside ‘Step Into Liquid’ ‘Riding Giants’ and ‘Five Summer Stories’ in the primo category of surf movies that rip onscreen and tell a great story.”
That’s pretty high praise, considering those are generally considered some of the best surf movies ever made.
For a good story on Tomson, check out this LA Times piece. For a preview of “Bustin’ Down the Door,” check out this clip.
Photo: www.bustindownthedoor.com
Posted on July 30th, 2008 by Pat
Filed under: Surf stuff
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