Sidetracked

I was in the water at Morro Bay this morning when suddenly, in the distance, I saw this huge set begin to form in the distance.

“Oh, (expletive),” I said, and began frantically paddling toward the horizon.

Each time I paddled over a wave, it seemed there was another one farther out — and bigger.

“Oh, (expletive),” I said again, paddling harder.

Finally, when I was sure it was all over — with my heart racing – I turned to watch the back of the wave before an explosion of white water marked its breakage. And then, as is often the case when I know I’m safe, I thought: “Eh — it wasn’t that big.”

And, truth is, it really wasn’t.

There’s a big difference between myself and people who ride big waves. Namely, I’m a coward, and they’re not. So while I admire people like Sarah Gerhardt, I never really aspire to do what she does. Because, really, when it comes down to it, fear sucks.

Still, I’m mesmerized by big waves and those who ride them.

In last Thursday’s Ticket cover, I wrote about Gerhardt, who will be in Shell Beach this weekend for a screening of “One Winter Story,” a documentary about her life. Gerhardt, who learned to surf when she lived in Pismo, was the first woman to surf Maverick’s, a trecherous big wave spot in Half Moon Bay.

But she’s not just a surfer. Back in 1992, the Tribune realized her academic potential, profiling her for a high school graduation story. As the story noted, other students at Arroyo Grande High School knew her as “the girl who takes care of her mother.”

From an early age, Gerhardt cared for her mom, who suffered from muscular dystrophy.

“My mom has been my life,” she told longtime Trib reporter Carol Roberts. 

Still, Gerhardt managed to graduate with a 4.0. And eventually she would earn doctorate — but not before her mother passed away, of cancer.

While at Cal Poly, Gerhardt started tackling bigger waves, eventually paddling out on 40-foot days.

Since the thought of wiping out on such a huge wave terrifies me, I asked Gerhardt how long one would have to hold their breath in a Maverick’s wipeout.

“If a person got a double wave hold down, they would have to be able to hold their breath, under stress, for probably a minute,” she said.

Which, of course, would be bad news for me since I can barely hold my breath that long while sitting on my living room couch.

“It’s not that impossible,” she tried to assure me. “You just have to train for it.”

Her husband Mike, also a big wave surfer, can hold his breath for about three minutes, she said. When driving to a Maverick’s session, he’ll hold his breath several times to expand his lungs. While Gerhardt practices holding her breath and stays in shape by swimming, the best way to prepare for big wave wipeouts, she said, is to simply take a few on the chin.“The best thing is to get a good beat down and get forced to hold your breath.”When she heard that two women were interested in making a movie about her, Gerhardt was a little nervous but also flattered.“I think I’m always undervalued and underrated in what I’ve done.,” she said. “So to be honest I was like, you know, I don’t really think I’m that special but if you want to do something, that’s great – I’ll help you out. And you have to help me because I’m camera shy.” 

Gerhardt isn’t as well known as other big wave surfing women, like Jenny Useldinger or Layne Beachley. But, she admits, part of that is because she has a life outside of surfing. 

“I could have tried to dedicate my life to that and struggled to get sponsored and go around the world,” she said. “But I loved chemistry and knew I wanted to get my bachelor’s in it. And that’s where my focus has been. I have more than surfing going on.”

Anticipating a good turnout, the folks at La Perla Del Mar, where the movie will be shown, have added a second screening for Friday night. The three total screenings take place over two days, beginning tomorrow night. The venue is located at 205 Windward Ave. in Shell Beach.

Photo of Gerhardt at Maverick’s: Frank Quiarte

Photo of Gerhardt and her mother: Robert Dyer

Posted on October 8th, 2008 by Pat
Filed under: Surf stuff