Prior to a surf session, the surfer will often achieve what is sometimes referred to* as a “pre-stoke” by watching videos of other people surfing. This gets the surfer in the mood, if you will, for the upcoming sesh.
These movies typically feature surfers who have no actual job, but rather, spend their days surfing, leading the common (a..k.a., “working stiff”) surfer to say things like, “What a life!” and “I’d be pretty good, too — if I didn’t have to work all the time!”
Surf movies are clearly not created equal. The best ones will feature surf travel, a few quirky moments (say, a guy surfing a door or a surf board falling off a car top) and plenty of wipeouts because we surfers like to see other people wipe out - particularly if it’s a surfer who doesn’t have to work a real job.
In the best of all worlds, surf movies would also feature good music. But since most surf movies are made with low budgets – not enough to license songs from well-known artists — the music often sucks. But the surfer is a forgiving sort — as long as the crummy music is accompanied by the aforementioned wipeouts.
* By me
Posted on November 19th, 2008 by Pat
Filed under: Things Surfers Like
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