For most surfers camping doesn’t just represent a chance to be one with nature; It also represents a chance to be away from work.
Surfers spend considerable time thumbing through magazines and watching videos of others surfers in exotic places, like Costa Rica, Indonesia and Sheboygan. But most surfers can only afford something a little more local. So a surf trip, technically, can be anywhere more than an hour from home.
A surfer can bring a book on a surf trip, but chances are that book will go unread. Because, the goal of the surf trip is pretty basic: to surf one’s guts out.
Hence, a schedule for a typical day would look like this:
7:30 a.m.: Wake up, eat PBJ.
8 a.m.: Surf
7 p.m.: Get out of the water, eat PBJ.
8 p.m.: Sleep.
As the surfer heads home from the surf trip, he or she will proclaim, “I am surfed OUT!” But the very next day, said surfer will be checking the reports again.
Photo: Pat Pemberton
Posted on January 9th, 2009 by Pat
Filed under: Things Surfers Like
What I like is sitting back with a beer and listening to LedZep on Friday afternoon while reading about “What Surfers Like.”
Also, I think I like “Surf Trips” more than anything else. Should be some good waves this weekend! Superstoked…
Pretty accurate. Surfers are unusual because their mode of travel is usually quite different than most tourists who fly somewhere, get on the airport shuttle and then camp their butt at their destination. I know from personal experience that getting there (by boat, canoe, bicycle, chicken bus, plane, train, hitchhiking, car, motorcycle or foot) is usually half the fun. I’ve used all those modes of transport all over the world and think I crave those experiences almost as much as the waves. If I needed to ride on a sub to go surf a wave I would.
Sounds fun. And there’s few better places to surf than in the great state of California!
this is the kookiest thing ever written about surfers. i’m glad this is what the general public thinks about surfing because i’m convinced even less of you will try it and ruin it worse than it has already been ruined.
I came to your blog because of a dumb photo of an elephant surfing.
Now my memory bank is in overdrive and digging deep after 30 years of living in Thailand and Sumatra.
Maybe I feel guilty and confused because as a 5th generation Californian I have now lived longer in Asia then I spent in California. Geez…my family is buried all over that state from Yreka to Barstow….I don’t miss the cold stinky wetsuits that have been left in the car trunk all winter night…but I’d do anything for a bowl of refried beans topped with a bit of Monterey Jack…and 6-8ft perfect El Capitan….Cheers Mates
Mahtab:
Who could resist a photo of an elephant surfing?
But it looks like there’s some decent surf in your neck of the woods as well. And plenty warm!