In fact, they’re eagerly awaiting the day when a surfer like Laird Hamilton drops into a 100-foot monster — and promptly gets pummeled.
Because surfers are also rather fond of wipeouts.
Some ultra cool surfers will downplay big waves, saying things like, “Yeah, it’s pretty decent sized” when it’s actually quite decent sized. Or they’ll say something like, “I’d say it’s about six foot out there” when it’s really about 9 foot out there. These, of course, are ploys to 1.) make that surfer feel cool and 2.) make the other surfer feel like a wuss.
But even those who think head-high is enough can take pleasure in big waves. And, of course, it’s also fun to watch people risk their lives doing crazy things.
Remember Evel Knievel? He should’ve been a surfer.
So here’s hoping someone catches that 100 footer soon. Meanwhile, the rest of us wusses will be eagerly awaiting the next head-high day.
Photo: Billabong Odyssey
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