An actual (basically) pre-surf log

surfer-joe.jpg7:45 — Check Surfline for Morro Bay beach cam

7:50 — Check Surfline for Pismo beach cam

8:00 — Eat toast with peanut butter, check e-mail

8:15: Call Surf Buddy:

Me: Are you ready for the Stoke?

SB: Oh yeah — I’ve been waiting all week for this.

Me: It’s gonna be good. That hard week you had at work? Forget it, dude. This is gonna make up for all your troubles.

SB: It’s gonna be awesome!

Me: It’s gonna be better than awesome. It’s gonna be . . . life altering.

SB: I’ll see you at the spot?

Me: Yup. We’re gonna get the stoke of all stokes — we’re gonna do it for the Duke and all the now-dead surfers that followed him.

8:30 — arrive at beach.

Me (while looking at ocean): There’s waves!

SB: Yeah. You ready to hit it?

Me: Yeah, man. Looks like we have some size out there.

SB: Yeah. Good size.

Me: Check that guy out — he’s on a wave.

SB: Yeah, man. That’s gonna be us. 

Me (opening hatchback while checking out nearby flags): Looks a little windy out here. Why’s it so windy this early?

SB: It’s just a windy place, man.

Me: Kinda choppy, too. Didn’t the forecast say it was supposed to be glassy? Why isn’t it glassy?

SB: It’s just a little choppy, that’s all.

Me: Watch this guy taking off. He’s gonna  – Oh, @#$%! He just got worked! Did you see that?

SB:  Gnarly, man.

Me: Somebody call an ambulance.

SB: Somebody call a hearse.

Me: Seriously. I haven’t seen a wipeout that bad in months.

SB: That was epic.

(Holding wetsuits, but not putting them on.)

Me: Geeeez . . . so what do you think?

SB: Looks pretty sloppy out there.

Me: Yeah — and choppy.

SB: I’m not going out.

Me: Me neither. Let’s look at it tomorrow.

Tribune photo: Joe Johnston

3 Responses to “An actual (basically) pre-surf log”

  1. wow! thats all there is to it? heck, I can do that from Fresno! LOL

  2. Sometimes it’s better to have a hell or no water session … where you go out regardless, conditions be damned, catch the minimum and call it a day!

  3. Yup, yup. That sounds about right.

    I’m with Jeff. I’m going to eliminate the pesky middle step of actually driving to the ocean and take up armchair surfing instead.

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